Thursday, February 16, 2012

Wine Tasting in Paso Robles

Paso Robles Wine Tasting

It was a last minute decision based on a coastline socked in with fog and the availability of a spacious minivan able to hold up to eight wine loving ladies. We'd all travelled to Cambria - a woodsy artist community on California's central coast located about 4 hours north of Los Angeles - to celebrate the 4th of July weekend. Some of us were regular visitors, others were locals getting reacquainted with their old stopping grounds, and a couple were complete newbies with eager hearts and voracious appetites for adventure. On that particular Saturday, our plans for leisurely day at the beach were unceremoniously thwarted by a chilly, overcast morning. A quick call to Hearst State Beach, known as "the cove" to locals, confirmed our fears - the sun had called in sick and terminated any chance of sunshine 20 miles along the coast in either direction.

First just a whispered suggestion, the idea for wine tasting suddenly gained momentum. A full tank of gas later, we found ourselves floating nicely across highway 46, a state route that directs drivers from the the main freeway to the heart of central coast wine country. As we top the first hill and descended into the valley, the fog melted away, replaced by a heavy air, heated by a healthy sun and perfumed with the sent of oak trees and lavender.

Paso Robles and its neighboring communities, has steadily grown into a vintners paradise. Over 150 wineries dote the rolling hills that undulate from edge of the Pacific Ocean to the flat lands of California's central valley. The climate makes the ideal for Zinfandel and Syrah varietals, with the rare white wine making an appearance in blush form. Most of the wineries are small set ups, often family run, focusing on a short list of selections. The limited grape varietals, combined with the large number of wineries, allows the taster to focus on one type of wine - a Syrah for example - and still experience a wide range of flavors.

On our trip we stopped at four establishments, all quirky in their own way, and each offering different versions of one or two grape types. Unlike Napa and Santa Barbara, the wineries of the central coast feel less like stores focused on selling a product, and more a like a local hang out interested in inspiring visitors to explore the wines they produce. This difference becomes quite defined when it comes to tasting fees, which are often at least a couple of dollars less than the $15 average that reigns in Santa Ynez. At a couple of our stops, the tasting room manager waived off our money and asked us to just enjoy the tastings.

I am a huge fan of the Santa Ynez valley and the local wineries located there, but I was surprised at how the relaxed feel in Paso Robles allowed me to really "sink my teeth" into the wines and absorb all the flavor and possibility. I didn't feel as if I'd just ponied up to a bar to order a shot, I felt like I was visiting a friend of friend for a piece of pie. Ultimately, many people in our party bought two or more bottles, and the pourers "comped" our tasting fee altogether. This is apt to happen once in a while in Napa, but I've yet to get the same treatment in Santa Barbara (where, in one famous incident, a friend bought a case of wine for her wedding, but the winery still asked us to pay "up front" for the tasting and then hunted us down for the glasses as we strolled the property).

As for the wines themselves, I won't pretend that I am expert enough to satisfy the true connoisseur with my assessment. For the most part, I found my faith in the Syrah upheld and expanded. Not as trendy as the Pinot Noir, I find the Syrah to be much more accessible by the general public. It's a grape that can often serve as a canary in a goldmine. If the Syrah is good, chances are some of the other, more complex wines will also be up to par. What truly excited me though were the Central Coast Zinfandels. I will admit to a personal prejudice against the noble Zin. Often associated with little old ladies and high school party punch gone horrible awry, the White Zanfindel's budget reputation often tarnishes his red brother's reputation. It's my suspicion that the Zin is a complex grape, harder to understand or appreciate when compared to merlot of cabernet.

Four wineries in one day is a good start, but with some many locales to choose from, I doubt even the most seasoned wine taster could get bored in Paso Robles. In addition, at several of the wineries we visited were set up with picnic benches and a picnic friendly atmosphere. One winery in particular even had a couple of chardonnays (quite rare in tat area), chilled and ready to give a final, flavorful note to an end-of-day picnic.

Friday, November 11, 2011

Hey! Wanna go wine tasting?

By Elizabeth Cutright


Perhaps you've seen the film Sideways and you want to have your own adventure. Or maybe you've stood in the aisles of your local grocery story…confused and overwhelmed…trying to decide which bottle to pick for that special dinner, fancy party or weekend BBQ. It could be that you're an old hat at all this wine tasting business, but you've never tried out the wines in the Santa Ynez Valley or explored an urban wine trail. If you're curious or confused, then look no further: Here's your ultimate guide to wine tasting in, and out, of the city of Santa Barbara.


Tasting
Wine tasting engages all the senses. When evaluating a wine, take the time to note the color (hold it up to the light for full effect) and the way it sticks to the sides of the glass. Before taking a sip, inhale the aromas: twirl you glass to help the wine release the volatile compounds that make up its scent, and then go ahead…stick your nose into the glass and try to name all the smells you can identify. Is that cinnamon? Maybe a touch of vanilla or fig? Could that really be the sweet scent of your grandfather's old cigar? Once you're ready to take taste, make that first sip count. Swish the wine around your tongue and let the wine settle in your mouth. Swallow slowly and feel the texture of the wine as it slides down your throat - is smooth and silky? Dry and tangy? Take another sip or two (or more!), just to make sure. Then on to the next one on the list!


The Wines
So what should you expect when it comes to Santa Barbara wines? One word: variety. While California Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs get most of the press, in the Santa Ynez Valley and the streets of Santa Barbara, you can travel across a wide swathe of vintages and varietals; from Italian grapes to French flavors to old favorites, it's all here.

You may have heard someone speak of the great Bordeaux they just tried, or maybe you've stared at the Sauvignon Blancs and the Pinot Grigios and wondered what set them apart from their other white cousins. Below is a list of the kinds of wines you can expect to find in and around Santa Barbara:


Whites:
Chardonnay: To some extent, the taste of Chardonnay depends on whether it's been fermented in oak or steel barrels. The former produces a smooth, buttery white with flavors of vanilla and coconut. The latter produces a slightly more citrus taste, with flavors reminiscent of lemon and grapefruit.
Gewurtztraminer: An aromatic white with fruity flavors and aromas of peach and rose. Moscato: Another fruity wine, this varietal is sweet and retains much of the flavor of its parent, the Muscat table grape.
Pinot Grigio: Aromatic and fruity, Pinot Grigio is also a dry, crisp wine with a salty, and acidic "bite."
Pinot Gris: Also slightly acidic, the taste of a Pinot Gris can vary wildly depending on where it's planted, but all varieties have a floral aroma and a slightly sweet taste.
Sauvignon Blanc: A lighter wine than Chardonnay, a Sauvignon Blanc tastes of white meat fruits like green apples and pears. Viognier: A crisp drinking wine with sweet aromas and a dry, soft floral taste.


Reds:
Pinot Noir: A delicate red, the soft flavors include cherry, plum and even hints of damp soil or worn leather.
Merlot: A softer red, with hints of berry and plum.
Cabernet Sauvignon: A middle-of-the-road red with hints of berry and soft pepper, along with tinges of vanilla and tobacco.
Syrah (or Shiraz): A spicy, peppery red with a taste of black fruit (blackberries, cherries and even currants), a Syrah can also have tinges of dark chocolate, coffee or even toffee.
Grenache: A fruity red - with hints of everything from cherries to raspberries to strawberries - this wine can also turn dark, with intense notes of coffee, pepper and even black olives.
Barbera: A slightly acidify red with a silky texture and juicy, plummy flavor.
Nebbiolo: With an acidic, heavy base, this wine carries flavors of dried fruit , licorice and leather.
Sangiovese: This bold reds tastes primarily of berry and plum.

This is by no means an exhaustive list; part of the fun of tasting is Santa Barbara is discovering new varietals and blends. There's always something new brewing, and at any moment you may find a great new Rhone Blend, another Bordeaux varietal and even a new twist on a familiar friend.

*Special note:
In France wines are named by region, rather than grapes. Roughly speaking, a white Burgundy wine is similar to a California Chardonnay while a red Burgundy comes from the Pinot Noir grape. Anything from the Bordeaux family will most always include a Cabernet blend. For more on French wine, go here: French Wine


Additional information:
For a list of wine tasting terms, go here: Terms
For more information on Santa Barbara wines, go here: SB County Wine
For a list of wineries, go here: SB County Wineries.

How To - Wine Tasting In The Santa Ynez Valley

By Elizabeth Cutright

So you’re ready to leave the city limits and travel up highway 154 (now Chumash Highway, but still called San Marcos Pass by locals). There are plenty of adventure companies and transportation providers who have ready made wine tasting adventures available, so if you’d like to pause the brain activity and just enjoy some snacks and some ice cold Chardonnay – and money is not your first concern – then by all means contact one of our many efficient and experienced tour companies. Their guides know just where to take you, and in many cases these tour companies have special partnerships with individual wineries, allowing you to partake in special tastings and other opportunities not available to the average tourist. If you decide to sign up for a wine tour, then you can expect to have lunch provided for you and, in most cases, you will probably visit about four to five wineries along one of the main wine tasting arteries that branch off from the 154.

If you’d rather go it alone, then take a deep breath: Wine tasting in the Santa Ynez Valley can be overwhelming – thanks in part to all the superb wines produced by the region – but with a little information and the right plan, an independent and custom-made wine tour can be a beautiful thing.

The first thing you should know about the Santa Ynez Valley is that Highway 101 cuts a swathe right down the center of this fertile region. To the west there’s Lompoc, Vandenberg Air Force Base and some, but slightly more obscure, tasting rooms. To the east lies Buelton, Solvang and the rural hamlets of Santa Ynez, Los Olivos and Ballard. This region east of 101 was the setting of the film Sideways and it’s inhabited by many popular, and widely recognized, wineries. When planning out your wine tasting travels, the first decision should be which side of the freeway you’d like to explore.While hitting both the east and west sides of the valley in one day is doable, it’s not advisable; you’ll be doing a lot of driving as it is, and going from side of the freeway to the other could add an extra hour to your travel time.

If you decide to travel west towards Lompoc, take the California 1 ramp to Lompoc/Vandenberg Air Force Base, turn left onto CA-1 and then turn off on Highway 246. You'll have several wineries to chose from, all conveniently located just off the main road. The wineries on this side of the valley are not as well known but still top the list of local favorites. Both white and reds are represented, including some smooth and seductive Syrahs, cheery Sauvignon Blancs, and several organic varietals. There aren’t a lot of food options in this neck of the woods, so your best bet is a picnic – a good choice since most of the wineries have beautiful grounds well designed for a brief snack or an afternoon meal.

If instead you choose to head eastward towards the Santa Ynez hills, you’ve got a wide range of choices. You can decide to try a self-contained tasting session in either Solvang or Los Olivos – two picturesque towns full of friendly tasting rooms, restaurants and local shops. The tasting rooms in Los Olivos have expanded exponentially over the last several years, and you’d be hard pressed to hit them all in one day. While Solvang’s wine shops are also expanding, one day on the quaint, Dutch-inspired street should be enough to whet your appetite.

Venturing out onto the winding roads that meander through the Santa Ynez valley requires some planning and some prioritizing. Several wineries sit right off the 154, and even more dot both Alamo Pintado and Foxen Canyon road. Most wine tours pick one road and stick with it, and there’s no shame in following that example. Of course, you should be warned – Foxen Canyon Road is, itself, split by the 154, with and several very good wineries sit on either side of this divide. In addition, Foxen Canyon road travels up into the Santa Maria Valley, home to many great wines and wineries – but a trip in this direction will take at least 45-60 minutes once you turn off the 154 and will pretty much become a day trip in and of itself, due to the distance between the tasting rooms themselves as well as the length of the drive north from the 154. Alamo Pintado is not as long, or as densely populated, as Foxen Canyon, but there are some good wineries – and even a lavender farm and self-picking apple orchard – off the main drag, making Alamo Pintado a destination unto itself.

In addition to planning your wine tasting tour based on location – the easiest option by far – you can also decide to taste just one varietal or type. For example, while there are plenty of great Chardonnays coming out of the Santa Ynez valley, many of the local vineyards have been producing some superior vintages based on French and Italian grapes, including Dolcetto, Sangiovese and Nebbiolo. Same goes for the reds – there are plenty of tasty Pinot Noirs to be sure, but why not compare Syrahs to Syrahs, Pinot Noirs to Pinot Noirs or Rhone Blends. If one varietal is not enough, perhaps you can decide to taste only reds or whites – while this option allows you to get the a feel for multitude of wines produced in the region, at the same time you will experience enough similarities between the different wineries to allow you to make some studied and insightful comparisons.

The Santa Ynez Valley Wine Plan - Map
If you have a couple of hours: Pick one winery and stick to it – just the drive back and forth to the location will take up a significant amount of time (depending on your starting point between 15-20 minutes from Solvang up to 45 minutes from downtown Santa Barbara, one way). If you’ve only got a few hours to spare, then the best solution is to head out to one location and relax enough to enjoy a whole tasting menu (generally between 6 to ten wines) and even decide whether or not to purchase a bottle or joint a wine club.

If you have an afternoon: The best bet for an afternoon of wine tasting is to pick Solvang or Los Olivos and tramp along your own urban wine trail. Both locations have plenty of tasting rooms and lots of options for food and other distractions. Just a helpful warning – there are many, many tasting rooms in Los Olivos, so you may want to pick a type or varietal as a way to make the experience a bit more manageable.

If you want to picnic: Just like the wine taster who’s only got a couple of hours to spare, the picnicker’s best bet is to pick one location and stick with it. On the plus side, if you’re bring your own food and have set aside half a day to enjoy some local wines, then your choice of location is limitless. Just about every winery in the Santa Ynez Valley welcomes potential picnickers with tables and chairs – often situated in the most picturesque area available under shady trees with a view of the vines stretching out to the horizon. If you’re determined to hit more than one location, your best bet is to start at the winery furthers from your homebase and work your way back. You can eat at the first – or second – stop and still possibly have time for a third and final stop before you head home.

If you want to spend a whole day/weekend/week at your leisure: If you’ve got more than half a day to spend in the Santa Ynez Valley, you’re sure to come home with a couple of bottles of wine, a handful of commemerative glasses and probably a wine club membership….or two. With a weekend at your disposal, you can easily hit Solvang or Santa Ynez on a Friday afternoon, and the west side of the freeway on Saturday and end your day exploring Los Olivos and Foxen Canyon road all day Sunday. In fact, with more than day available, it’s quite easy to hit all four regions of the valley: west, east, Solvang and Los Olivos. You can also travel along Alamo Pintado one day and Foxen Canyon the next. Whichever path you choose, a long weekend in the valley means no limitations: try all those whites and all those reads, and just save some space for some cheese, crackers and dark chocolate.

How To - The Urban Wine Trail (Santa Barbara)



By Elizabeth Cutright

If you’re visiting Santa Barbara – or are a permanent resident with a pair of sturdy walking shoes and a taste for adventure – there’s no need to drive outside the city limits to find a crisp Chardonnay or a velvety Pinot Noir. Clustered in packs or standing a solitary vigil, there are tasting rooms galore in downtown Santa Barbara; most of them mere blocks from State Street.

The Funk Zone
If you’re short on time, it’s best to start in the “Funk Zone.” Beginning a block from the beach, the Funk Zone inhabits about one square mile of city streets peppered with surf shops, galleries, restaurants and tasting rooms. You can begin your journey through the Funk Zone by either starting at Sterns Warf and heading inland, or – conversely – by starting just off State Street and snaking your way back to the beach. Either way, tasting in the Funk Zone is an easy introduction to wine tasting – most of the tasting rooms are right next door to each other, and all make a concerted effort to make the tourist or first time taster feel welcome. And because there are so many eateries nearby – from pizza parlors to sandwich shops to high-end restaurants – you can spice up your afternoon with a picnic, a pepperoni slice or fresh seafood delivered right from the source to your plate.

But the urban wine trail in Santa Barbara is not confined to those few blocks North of Cabrillo Blvd. If you’re feeling really adventurous – and have access to a bike, a car or a bus pass – you there are many other tasting opportunities spread out throughout the city. Head east towards Milpas Street, and you’ll find a cluster of three or four tasting rooms, all ready, willing and able to give you a taste of the white and red varietals common to the Santa Ynez and Santa Maria valley. And just like the Funk Zone, the wine tasting zone of East Santa Barbara lies in close proximity to a variety of restaurants, including lots and lots of Mexican food, but also Italian delis, fast food and even Vietnamese specialities.

If you’ve got a car, a designated driver, and a desire to spend your entire day sampling vintages, there are a few extra stops to the urban wine trail that, while outside the main tasting clusters, are still worth a visit. Some restaurants just off of State Street now have tasting menus along with their traditional fair, and a quick drive South on the 101 freeway will take you to Milpas and Summerland where there are even more interesting wine shops and tasting opportunities.

The Urban Wine Plan:
If you have a couple of hours: Turn East off State Street onto Yanonali Street, where you can hit up three wineries in a three-block radius.
Alternate plan: Turn east off State Street onto Haley Street and head towards Milpas. Although not as “walkable” as the funk zone, three tasting rooms make up a triangle of goodness just off Hayley Street and Milpas.

If you have half a day: Start at State Street and Yanonali Street and head towards Anacapa Street, which will take you south towards Cabrillo Boulevard. From there, walk out on Sterns Wharf, where you can taste some wine and then top off your afternoon with fish tacos, clam chowder or a scoop of ice cream in a waffle cone.

If you want to picnic: Stop at a nearby supermarket or deli and stock for your al’ fresco meal – don’t forget the water – and head on out to the Funk Zone. After a few tastings, pick the perfect picnic spot (several of the tasting rooms are set up for just that purpose) and play at being European for the day.

If you’re determined to hit every tasting room within the city limits: Well, for starters…good luck with that, I hope you’ve got enough cash for cab fare (or a kindly partner willing to play sober chauffeur). You can hit most of the big tasting rooms in Santa Barbara by making a loop that Starts at State Street and De La Guerra Plaza, loops over to Milpas St. and ends up back in the ever-present Funk Zone.

For a great map of the urban wine tail, go here: Map

Some highlights:
–While your tramping along on your urban wine adventure, don’t forget to take a breather and explore some of the interesting sights along the way.
–In the Funk Zone: The Surf Museum, The Ty Warner Sea Center, or try the “little toot” for a quick sea trip around the harbor.
–In East Santa Barbara: Get a carne asada taco at the world famous (and Julia Childs beloved) Supericas.
–In downtown Santa Barbara: The Santa Barbara Courthouse with its Sunken Gardens is a must see.

Transportation options:
Car – Just designate a driver and keep an eye out for one-way streets and permit only parking.
Trolley – The downtown trolley travels up and down State Street at regular intervals, starting at Micheltorena Street and ending at Sterns Wharf. It’ll cost you 25 cents per person, and on weekends the trolley arrives about every 15 minutes. Another trolley travels east and west down Cabrillo Blvd and can be picked up at State Street and Cabrillo for a quick trip to the harbor or points in between.
Bus – For the Metropolitan Transit Department (MTD) schedule, to here: Bus
Biking – Several hotels offer bike rentals to guests, but if cycles aren’t available where you’re staying, then go here for the latest information on bike rentals as well as bike path information and safety tips for urban cycling. Just remember, it’s just as easy to crash – or get a DUI – on a bicycle as it is in a car, so stay safe.
Walking – The sidewalks are spotty in the Funk Zone, but the traffic is almost nonexistent. In East Santa Barbara there are sidewalks a plenty, but the traffic’s a bit heavier. In both cases, remember to wear comfortable shoes and keep an eye out at crosswalks.